From Libya to Scotland

Ok, well, I haven't updated my blog since April, but as most of you know that's because I was in Libya from April to July to support the start up of our emergency programs there. I posted some blogs to the Mercy Corps website from there, so I didn't post them here. But if you missed them, you can find them at http://www.mercycorps.org/supporters/jillmorehead. So after Libya, I was in DC for about a week and a half before leaving for Scotland. In Scotland, I got to stay in Glasgow and attend a two week training entitled Making Markets Work for the Poor and it is about a sustainable way of effecting change to make markets function more effectively for our beneficiaries, either through advocacy, access to credit or whatever is needed. Our European HQ office is based in Ediburgh, so the first week of August I worked from there and got to meet a bunch of colleagues there, which was great! Edinburgh is amazing. So beautiful! Then I took a long-coming vacation the second week of August to trek around Scotland. It was really fun. I was able to go to a Scotch distillery called Glengoyne. Wasn't really a fan before I went, but now I can appreciate a good scotch. I also went to a bunch of castles...let's see....Dumbarton (on the river Clyde), Sterling, Holyrood House (palace, not castle), and Edinburgh...not to mention the other palaces and castles that we saw from the lake and the road. Supposedly, during the month I was there, there was one of the best weather days since they started recording the weather and one of the wettest. The Thursday before I left Scotland, they received more rain in that day than they usually get in the entire month of August. I, of course, visited the Scottish highlands and Loch Ness as well. No sight of Nessie. We stopped by mountains called the Three Sisters where the British Army was called to carry out the massacre of the MacDonald clan. They were really beautiful and one car had a message to make sure that people are motivated to Save the Earth. I think if this isn't the best reason to become an environmentalist, I don't know what is. ; ) Ok. There was also a Scottish bagpiper there which our tourist guide says was terrible, but I couldn't tell. I liked it anyway. Ok, the last thing I have to say about Scotland (which is awesome, by the way, even with all the rain), is that they have the cutest cows I've ever seen. The Highland Cow used to be black and they are starting to breed more of the black ones now, but when the Queen said that she wanted to see Highland Cows that were a golden browny color, they made sure to breed the cows to her liking. Personally, I just love their shaggy hair! Sooo cute!! After Scotland...one week in DC and then off to northeastern Kenya for famine response and another training....stay tuned....

Living in DC

Spring is in the air...well, it was yesterday...maybe next week? Someday when Mother Nature makes up her mind between 70 degree weather one day and then a week of 30 degree weather. We've definitely had the rain of spring over the last week. So, as most of you know, I moved to DC last year, but haven't gotten to spend tons of time here since then. Although, I've now been here for six weeks straight after returning from giving that training in Tajikistan. Have I mentioned how much I love DC? I have? Oh well, I'm going to tell you another 3 or 4 times!! So, I actually live in Northern Virginia, not in DC proper, which people living in the District are happy to point out. But I love where I live. It is a cute area and there are TONS of dogs here! Woo hoo! The only downside? It's not within walking distance of the DC subway (called Metro). But there is a bus that stops right in front of my apartment and I love taking it to work because it's like a little tour of DC each time we go. Come with me on my bus ride.

First, we pass the US Air Force Memorial on our way to the Pentagon. Sometimes I get off at the Pentagon and take the subway, if it's raining or I'm running late. After the Pentagon, we go over past Arlington Cemetery where JFK and the unknown soldier are buried. After Arlington, we head across Memorial Bridge to the Lincoln Memorial and down to the Washington Monument, where I get off to begin my walk to the office. I cross Constitution Avenue, pass the Organization of American States, wave to the Obamas in the White House and walk past the Old Executive Building toward my office. The entire commute, bus and walk takes about an hour, but thankfully we don’t start until 9. So I get to sleep in, get a tour of the nation’s capital and still make it to work on time.

You know it’s spring in DC when the Cherry Blossoms bloom and tons of tourists start pouring in for the Cherry Blossom Festival. I got my bum out of bed this morning and drove with my neighbor to park in front of the Smithsonian American History Museum. Then we walked past the Ellipse and White House down to the Washington Monument where we met up with 15 other people and went on the 5K Chit Chat Run. We ran down to the WW2 memorial, then we stopped and got a little “chat” about the memorial and WW2. Then we jogged over to the Vietnam Memorial and stopped for another short “chat”. Then, past the Lincoln Memorial to the Korean War Memorial and around the corner to the WW1 memorial. There is a new Martin Luther King Jr. monument being built across the street from the WW1 rotunda. Then we jogged around the tidal basin under the very pretty Japanese Cherry Blossom trees to the FDR memorial where we had another little “chat”. Over to the Jefferson Memorial in the Tidal Basin and then…it was over. But, wait….we had to get back to the car. So we followed a few people in the group back over to the Washington Monument to head home.

Ok, so it wasn’t crazy easy, like I thought it would be and I did actually have to walk a few times, which was pretty embarrassing, considering the National Park Service ranger who was leading us was in his 60s and was kicking my arse! However, after a total of 7K (which sounds way more impressive than 4 miles), I was feeling pretty good and ready for a cupcake. Good thing the bakery doesn’t put them out till 11am.

Well, just wanted to share. Enjoy the pics! My neighbor and I took them all on Saturday. Lots of Love, Jill

Return from Tajikistan

So, I got back from Tajikistan on Tuesday, Feb 15^th. It was a LONG trip home (especially with an 11 hour delay in Tajikistan and an unplanned overnight in Istanbul, Turkey), which made me really happy to sleep in my own bed. And, luckily, my flight got back in the afternoon, so I went to bed at 7pm, slept till 7am and kicked jet lag’s butt. No jet leg. Woo hoo!

I had a great time in Tajikistan. The capital was neat and had lots of good restaurants and cafes. Because there was so much to do for the training, I didn’t get a lot of time to do sightseeing, but we had fun. We had a big dinner to kick off the week and to get to know each other. It was mostly our Tajikistan staff, but four members from our Afghanistan team came over as well and also one of the local NGO partners in Tajikistan joined. He was an expert in Disaster Risk Reduction (DRR) and actually ended up giving a large part of our DRR session, which was pretty cool.

The Mercy Corps staff there was amazing! They had incredible capacity and such great attitudes and work ethic and were very interested in the training. I have to give them a lot of credit because even after five days of training, they were just as enthusiastic and engaged, which is always nice to see when you’re the trainer. Of course, giving them chocolate throughout the week doesn’t hurt. (wink) I gave my part of the training, which didn’t go as well as I had hoped, but also wasn’t as bad as I feared, so that’s good. As I said earlier, I still have a lot to learn about Early Recovery in Emergencies which is supposed to be my “expertise” and it showed during the training. One of the participants asked me a question and I had no idea what the answer was and wasn’t quick enough on my feet to think of something. So I had to look it up in the book and then give a half-assed answer. Oops!! (blushing from embarassment) But they were interested and engaged and wanted more time, so that’s always nice. Then on Friday, I gave another more in-depth session just to the program staff that went very well.

On Saturday, we did a big emergency simulation and I got to try on my acting skills (they’re not very good). I played a military checkpoint and I delayed two teams access to their “beneficiaries”. I also played a store owner willing to sell (and price gouge) the teams as they tried to buy items to help their beneficiaries. It was a lot of fun and I’m looking forward to doing it again. In late March, we have two more of these trainings coming up, one in Indonesia and one in Myanmar (formerly Burma). I’m hoping that I will get to go to these trainings as well, since I’ve never been to either country. Yay!

The weather was not so great that week. It was beautiful the day we arrived, but the following day it rained until midday when it switched over to snow, then it snowed for three days and then rained for the rest of the week. The next time I saw sun….the day we left and that was only because our flight was delayed for 11 hours. Get this….the flight was delayed for 11 hours due to “weather conditions” in Dushanbe. The one day in 10 days that the sky was blue and clear and the sun was out and shining brightly. Was the weather condition that the weather was too good? You tell me. No idea. : ) Silly airline! Anyway, the day before we left (as it poured down rain all day), we went on a guided hike outside of Dushanbe. Well, let me clarify…in Dushanbe it was raining, 30 minutes outside of Dushanbe where we were hiking in the mountains, it was snowing (about 6-7inches on the ground). When they said “hike”, I heard “walk up a gentle slope”. Since I was not planning to go on a hike when I packed for Tajikistan, I showed up to the hike in jeans, a sweater, ankle socks, and my $9 slip-on tennis shoes from Payless. Did I mention no umbrella? The rest of the group was all geared up in waterproof, insulated North Face coats and pants and wearing water proof hiking shoes. They even had extendable hiking poles, neck warmers, umbrellas, waterproof backpack covers, etc. That was my first clue…I was thinking I should have said that I wouldn’t go on the hike at that point, but I didn’t want to seem like a wimp. How dumb am I?? Very!

So….we drive up and I’m watching the snow come down and down and down (did I mention I had a whole in one of my cheap, cheap sneakers? We get out of the van in about 4 inches of snow. My feet are cold before we even start walking. One of the guys lends me some super techy socks, which helped a lot. Then another guy gave me an extendable hiking pole because he was worried about my crappy shoes! (pause for embarrassment…again). Then we start hiking. I was doing okay, except that underneath the (about 6 inches by this time) snow, there is a little bit of water, which then turns the snow to very wet slush. Mostly, I’m able to avoid the slushy parts. About 45 minutes in though…there’s about 100 yards of 6-inch slushiness. First my shoes get soaked, then both pairs of socks, then my jeans up to the knees. After another 15 minutes of hiking my feet are freezing! Now, I hated to be a whiner, but I was like “OK…and….I’m done. Thanks so much for the hike. See you guys down at the van!” It was like walking around on the Titanic after it started to sink. An hour later when I got down to the van (which had driven farther down the mountain due to the snow), my frozen feet were numb and I was a little cranky (wink). My two colleagues came with me. I crawled into the van, stripped to bare feet, put my brand new gloves I got for Christmas (thanks, Lauren!!) on my frozen feet (I like my toes and want to keep them!) and slept for the next hour and a half while waiting for the rest of the group. Next time they say….”Hey…want to go for a hike?” I will know better and say….”Heck, no!”

Anywho. That’s it in a nutshell. Enjoy the pics!! If you are wondering more about the org where I work, you can check it out (and the Tajikistan, Pakistan and Iraq programs) at www.mercycorps.org. I think you can even make donations there. (wink, wink) : )

Love, Jill

Tajikistan 101

I’m sorry that I haven’t been keeping up my blog recently. Just to get you up to speed….I left Iraq in July 2010. I loved being in Iraq, enjoyed my work there (as challenging as it could be) and really miss the staff in Baghdad!! However, being all cooped up in the office was taking it’s toll and it was time to leave. I got a new job with the same organization, Mercy Corps, and am now the Early Recovery Program Manager on the Global Emergency Operations (GEO) team. What that means is that in an emergency where Mercy Corps is going to respond, I am one of four people that the organization could send in to sort of lead the emergency team in response (sounds more impressive than it really feels on the ground). But my “specialty” (in which I have a LOT to learn) is Early Recovery…meaning economic or market recovery in an emergency. I was supposed to begin this new position on Oct 1^st out of the DC office, but I got a phone call mid-Sept saying that I was needed immediately in Pakistan to assist with the start up of our Cash-for-Work program there.

So I flew to DC (where I live now) on Sept 21^st and on the 23^rd I boarded a plane for Islamabad, Pakistan. Later that week I was headed down to our Sukkur office in southern Pakistan where the worst of the flooding took place over the summer. My five week deployment turned into three months, so it was a very good induction into GEO. The basic tenets are deployment can be with as little as 72hours notices and can last one week to three months and I did both. I really, really enjoyed Pakistan. The people were incredibly polite and sweet. The beneficiaries worked incredibly hard and even though the context was crazy complicated, I think we were getting good work done and making an immediate impact (albeit short-term impact) on the lives of those people. They used the money we paid them to repair community infrastructure (like roads, schools and irrigation canals) to purchase food, clothing and medicine for their families.

In February, I am headed to the former soviet republic of Tajikistan for two weeks to provide parts of a one-week emergency preparedness training there. Tajikistan used to be part of the USSR. Tajikistan shares a southern border with Afghanistan and a western border with Uzbekistan in central Asia. The northern border is shared with Kyrgyzstan and China in the east. It is pretty mountainous, apparently. I have to be honest here. I had heard of Tajikistan, but didn’t know anything about the country or where it was located. Some good resources to find additional information if you are interested are these below links:

https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/ti.html

http://www.mercycorps.org/countries/tajikistan

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tajikistan

Tajikistan (Tah jeek ih stan) gained independence in 1991 only to devolve into civil war from 1992-1997. Since then, it has remained relatively calm. It is a landlocked, mountainous country of about 7.5million people. Of these, less than 4% are over the age of 65 and the life expectancy is right around 65 years old (ranking 165 out of 224 countries). In comparison, the US ranks 49 out of 224 with an average life expectancy of 78 years. The language is Tajik, but Russian is also spoken widely. 90% of the population is Muslim and the literacy rate is over 99% (same as the US). The major natural disasters that occur with some frequency are earthquakes and floods. Mercy Corps estimates that in many parts of the country the unemployment rate is around 40%, compared to less than 10% in the US, and consequently, nearly approximately 60% of the population lives in poverty. The average annual income in Tajikistan is US$1,800. Could you imagine living on $150/month? This is half of my monthly salary when I was in Peace Corps 10 years ago.

I was very surprised when I was looking up all of these statistics about Tajikistan. To put this in perspective, Nicaragua is usually considered the second poorest country in the Western Hemisphere (only behind Haiti). These stats that I’ve written for Tajikistan remind me of similar statistics for Nicaragua 10 years ago when I was there during Peace Corps. In fact, out of curiosity I check Nicaragua today against Tajikistan and Nicaragua has a lower unemployment rate, a higher average annual income and a much lower poverty rate (48% instead of 60%). The most shocking of all of this is that even with such a grave situation in Tajikistan, funding in the country for NGOs to address these humanitarian needs is ending or shifting to contractors. Sometimes this work is depressing. Until the situation gets dire enough to get it into a big deal on the news or Tajikistan become strategically important politically, funding is unlikely to recover for these humanitarian programs. : (

But my understanding is that our staff there are very hard workers and very eager to learn, so I am excited to head over there for this training. Plus, this is a new country for me. I’ve never been to Tajikistan. I will try to remember to take lots of pictures (and hopefully update my blog more regularly). This is the 35^th country I’ve been to. Woo hoo!

Photos from the Red Sea

So the diving outfit that I went scuba diving with in the Red Sea had a photographer go with us and I got these photos from him. They are beautiful, but can't really do justice to the amount of incredible coral and fish life there. Enjoy!

Diving in the Red Sea

Hello Family and Friends,

How are you? I'm doing well. As I mentioned before, June was so busy with so much work. July started to calm down a little. There was still a lot of work, but I hired two staff to help me with it and they are both excellent. We laugh and we all work hard. They are really great and we are doing good work together. We currently have 13 projects up and running, some of which have been completed. We are really happy with it.

One of the communities we work in had trash everywhere, literally. It had no green spaces, no place for children to play, not even at school and very little access to clean water. We have focused a lot on this particular community and we have several projects there. We are providing playground equipment at the schools, providing water to the homes, building a park for the community, installing water pumps in the homes of over 300 widows and doing a clean up campaign to get rid of all the trash currently there and make sure it stays gone. I'm proud of the work we are doing there and hope that the long-term implications of this work will be positive. The families are very excited about having a place for their children to play. The schools are so excited about the work that we are doing with them. I am excited about the clean up project and working with the widows. We are also building a soccer park for the youth to have something to do. Now, they hang out together in the streets to chat and do whatever because they have no real distractions, but the soccer park will get a LOT of use. I am very excited to fast forward a few months to begin seeing the impact of all these projects on this community.

We had a visit from one of the VPs from headquarters and I got to go with him to this community and talk to him about the projects we are doing there and the community in general. It was pretty cool because I love talking about our projects, as you can see by the length of this blog. It was nice to be able to show off the difference being made in the community and the immediate impact some of the projects are having on community members. We are building community trash containers so that there is a place to put the trash, so that it doesn't collect in the streets anymore and as we drove through town, you could see the containers, could see people using them and could see the workers hauling away the trash. We drove through part of town that had already been cleaned and another that hadn't yet been cleaned and could really see the difference then.

Well, as most of you know, there was a series of bombings in Baghdad this month. I was in the office when the bombings happened. There were reports that it was a series of 13 bombs that exploded over a half an hour period. Two of the largest bombs targeted two government ministries. We were sitting in the office having a discussion when we heard one of the bombs. It rattled the front door. We didn't really move, just remarked that it must have been somewhat close if we were actually able to hear it. Less than 1 minute later we heard another explosion which rattled the windows and doors and startled everyone in the office. Several people went out onto the front lawn where a large white cloud of dust could be seen rising into the sky. There is speculation that terrorists are responsible, that it was politically motivated leading up to elections, that it was a sectarian attack, etc. Some of our staff was out and about, but our staff was totally fine and luckily not in the vicinity of any of the explosions. We sent them home early to be with their families. Often times when there are incidents or celebrations the government closes the roads without any announcements, so we wanted to make sure they were able to get home too. I worry about them a lot. We are pretty secure in that we limit our movement, etc., but our staff is out and about everyday living their lives, so they have a much higher risk. Plus, the attacks are usually aimed at Iraqis and are pretty rarely targeted at foreign civilians.

Shortly after the bombings, I left Baghdad for my second R&R. A good time to be able to relax. I wanted to make sure that I went someplace much closer, so that I could relax and not spend a lot of time in transit and not be all jet-lagged. : ) So I went to the Sinai peninsula in Egypt. I got a great tan, swam everyday and did A LOT of diving. The coral in the Red Sea is amazing! There are so many fish and lots of baby fish at this time of year. I even got to see a turtle. It was awesome! Egypt isn't really what I expected. I don't know what I was expecting, but it was different. The Red Sea is beautiful. It's a really deep, clear blue. And from my hotel, I could look out across the water and see the mountains of Saudi Arabia. I guess I expected both Egypt and Saudi Arabia to be big, flat deserts, maybe with some sand dunes, but I wasn't expecting rocky mountains. I don't know why, but I was really surprised. The Sinai where I was reminded me a little of Arizona. The mountains aren't as high in Sinai though, I don't think.

So I get into the cab to bring me from the town where the airport is to the town where I was staying. We stopped at the gas station to fill up the tank and the pick up truck across from us had three camels in the back! What a great intro to the Sinai. They were super cute! I got to the hotel, which is right on the water and has a dive center on site. I made sure to get into the pool the next day and take in a few rays. I headed into town and sent postcards to the couple of addresses I actually have memorized (We are way to dependent on computers and cells. I can't remember anyone's addresses or phone numbers now. So sad!) It was kind of deserted, but nice. It was the first day of the Muslim holy month of Ramadan, so there weren't a lot of people in the restaurants.

Devout Muslims fast for the month of Ramadan from sun up to sun down. Nothing is allowed to pass their lips. So not only do they fast from food, but they also don't drink anything (not even water) and smokers don't smoke. This is from sunup to sundown everyday for one month. Can you imagine working in the hot desert in the middle of summer in an industry like food service, or scuba diving, or manual labor or anything physical and still abstain from food and water?? That kind of faith and devotion is incredible to me! I don't know if I could do it. Could you?

So I was able to find some friends at the dive center. Like I said, the coral there was amazing! It's apparently been growing for thousands of years and was huge. Also, one of the dive sites we went to had been dived by Jacques Couteau. It was pretty awesome! At another dive site, we saw lots of fish and a turtle. Once we even rode camels for a little over an hour to a secluded dive site in a bedouin village. So many people commented on how uncomfortable it was to ride the camels, but the whole time I was thinking that it was actually really pretty comfortable. More comfortable than riding horses. Course, by the time we got to the dive site I got off the camel and found walking upright difficult because my lower back was in so much pain. Sigh...I'm getting old. : )

Do you ever have those moments and time stops for a few seconds and you feel totally at peace and completely content? The sun and the water always tend to do it for me. You know...sunsets, the ocean...rivers. We were riding back to the hotel on the camels. The sun was setting over the mountains making the blue of the Red Sea even more instense and making the sun spread in a fat, magenta line from the shore. The rocking of the camel was soothing and the waves were splashing against the rock. I had just been diving and seeing some of the most amazing coral ever and I was tan and relaxed and in a new country and new culture. It was a few moments of perfect happiness that I was able to enjoy. I think sometimes you notice it even more when you are on your own because you have no choice but to focus on your environment. I always prefer traveling with family or friends, but then I find that I am focused on being together and having fun hanging out, that I don't take time to "stop and smell the roses" as it were. Anyway....maybe you have no idea what I am talking about. But I find as I am getting older, my memory is already sliding downhill and those few perfect moments of remembered perfect happiness stick out boldly in my memory.

Anyhoo.....back to the grind. I really hope all is well with you and hope that you will remember to keep in touch. You should have my email. Come on....send a few lines about what's up with you. Pleeeaaassee! Pretty please with cherries on top? : )

Keep in touch! Lots of Love! Enjoy the pictures! Kisses. hee hee hee

Love,

Jill

Summer in Baghdad

Hello Family and Friends,

I hope all is well with you wherever you may be. Things are going well in Baghdad. I'm afraid this is going to be a long one. But what do you expect, when I haven't written for about 3 months or so. So....when last we left off, Jill was on her way to her first R&R. I had a great time in Costa Rica with my stepsister, Christol, my niece, Kylie and my friend, Hector. We hung out in San Jose, we flew to the west coast where we went scuba diving, swimming, boogie-boarding and got massages. We ate delicious food and enjoyed the beach. On the third day, we headed inland to the rainforests of Monteverde, where we laughed through a canopy tour, learned all about Costa Rican insects, bats, etc. and enjoyed the rainy season in Costa Rica. It was a great vacation!!

Well, you may have read about the not so pleasant trip back to Baghdad, but in the end, I got my luggage and I made it back on time, so all is well that ends well, although I would still avoid traveling American Airlines at any cost. Anyhoooo, when I got back to the office, I waded right into all kinds of things to get done. June was an incredibly busy month and I was working 16 hour days. I was trying to get my programs up and running and monitoring the ones that were running and was trying to find staff to hire. I have finally hired two staff members who are both amazing and fun. We laugh a lot together, but they are very hard workers and we have gotten a lot done. We have 9 programs up and running in Baghdad and will start 4 more in the next couple weeks. I really like our projects and think that we are getting good work accomplished. We are working with families who have been displaced by violence or families who are vulnerable economically or women who've lost their husbands. We have done three distributions of non-food items, such as water filters, cooking utensils and hygiene bags. We are currently running a women's literacy program through a local partner. In addition to learning to read and write Arabic and learning basic mathematics, the women are also exposed to workshops on first aid, women's health issues, women's rights, etc. It is very exciting. We are also working with youth to explore alternatives to violence. I am really enjoying being in Baghdad and my work here. I love the heat, although I may be the only one. We moved into a new office, which is beautiful and I love, love, love my room. It has windows, which is very exciting!

On June 30th, the US troops pulled out of major cities and into their posts. The cities were handed over to Iraqi Army and Police. Baghdad was in celebration for several days and the police vehicles were decorated for the occasion. There were a few extra security incidents in the city leading up to the handover, but things have been relatively calm since. While we are cautious and travel carefully, I feel safe here and am very fond of Baghdad. I love our staff. They are great people and we have a lot of fun together and we all work hard together.

The duststorms have been pretty bad in June and July. Sometimes the dust gets so bad you can barely see. It's looks a lot like a very foggy day, only it's a very fine dust in the air, like baby powder or something. Sometimes it's white, sometimes it's orange. Not long ago we had a bad orange duststorm for two or three days in a row. The windows were glowing orange where the sun reflected off the orange dust. This photo was taken during the day...not at sunset....just keep that in mind. It's pretty amazing. I have never seen anything like it. Planes are grounded during these duststorms and no one can get in or out. When you go outside, it's a little hard to breathe. I started caughing after just a few minutes outside. A colleague went outside in dress shoes for about two minutes and came in looking like he drug his shoes in the sand.

There is a kitten hanging around the house, so of course I give her a little food now and then. I sometimes heat up some milk and have taken to petting her. She's pretty cute! When we first got here she was all skinny and pathetic looking and didn't have a lot of energy. We named her Meskina, which means "poor thing" in Arabic. She's perked up quite a bit with the food, milk, and loving she gets. The expats feed her, the watchmen feed her, the landlady feeds her. She's a happy fat cat now. How cute is she??

Well, I suppose that is about it. I have just been work, work, working. The handover was interesting and the duststorms have been an incredible thing to see. Other than that....not much to tell. Please keep in touch. Don't forget....I love hearing what's going on with you too! This way, when I get back home, people don't say, "Haven't you heard this story? Where have you been?" : )

Lots of Love and Misses!! Jill